  A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | K | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z A is for Arrival. You can sail through the heads on a quiet morning or a fine afternoon, or make your way inside after beating through wind and rain all night - in any case, the harbour is breathtakingly beautiful. And the relief when you get out of the ocean swell and slide into the quiet waters of Port Jackson is overwhelming. Sydney is, without a doubt, one of the greatest harbours on the planet - great in terms of size and great in terms of the sheer number and diversity of anchorages that can be explored by cruising yachts. Within the many miles of waterways, one can still find quiet coves and bays, anchor off natural parks and beaches, explore bush trails and coastal cliff walks, yet never be far from cultural attractions and great shopping. In short, great cruising! What follows is an A to Zed of Sydney Cruising with descriptions of the best anchorages and other helpful cruising information. - A - Aboriginal rock carvings and shell middens - It is possible for cruisers to access areas of aboriginal rock engravings. Those most easily found are in Garigal National Park above Bantry Bay (Middle Harbour), off Wakehurst Road. It's a 40 minute walk - 20 minutes up the hill and 20 north along the path that parallels Wakehurst Road. A fenced-off area of flat rock has many engravings, once you start seeing them! In Broken Bay, the most easily accessible rock drawings are found by walking out of Coasters Retreat, Elvina Bay or America Bay. Shell "middens", the remains of aboriginal seafood dinners, are frequently found on points of land. Anchorages - Most bays are filled to near capacity with boats on moorings but some have anchoring possibilities outside of existing moorings. Some of the best spots in the main harbour are simply too rolly to enjoy for very long (due to the constant barrage of ferry and power boat wakes) or too noisy (due to bridge traffic or construction). Despite these urban overtones, anchorages exist in quiet areas surrounded by natural bush where it is hard to believe you are minutes from Australia’s largest city. This is due to the fact that large areas of the foreshore are dedicated to Sydney Harbour National Park. Anchoring - Sydney Harbour has a number of areas where anchoring is prohibited, such as all fairways and channels, some designated naval waters and Sydney Cove. Leave plenty of room if you're swinging on your anchor near moored boats. You'll swing differently than boats on moorings because of differing scope or if you're on rope and the mooring's all chain. Anchor lights - Vessels under 50 metres are required to show an all round white light after dark when anchored. Irrespective of the law, anchor lights make good sense and are good insurance against being hit. Early morning rowing teams or late arriving yachts and fishing boats will appreciate knowing where you are. Even with ambient light from the city, anchored boats are hard to see after sunset. Aquatic sports - Sydney is a great harbour - sailing, rowing, motor boats all jockey for a place on the water. Keep a lookout in all directions (even behind), know the right-of-way rules, but drive defensively. Might may be right in the case of the ferries and big ships, but remember to give the little guy a break. Athol Bay - Located on the north side of Sydney Harbour east of Taronga Zoological Park, Athol Bay offers good holding in sand and mud in about 8 metres. If you hear unusual sounds, don't worry. It's only the inhabitants of the Zoo - a wild and varied collection of native and exotic animals. At the east end of a sandy beach, steps give access to a nature trail that leads out through Ashton Park to Bradley Head’s memorial to HMAS Sydney. Signs along the walkway give details of the headland's aboriginal, historical and botanical significance. Nearby, there are gun emplacements and a sunny amphitheatre. Just up the hill from the beach, Athol Hall is open for lunches. Athol Bay has a spectacular view of the lights of Sydney at night, including both Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House. Hundreds of boats drop anchor along the western shore of Ashton Park on New Years Eve for the fireworks display. Australia Day - On January 26th, the normally busy waterways become even busier. Special parades and water events culminate in an evening of Fireworks at Darling Harbour. There is a Waterway's booklet that outlines "special event" right of ways and restrictions. - B - Balls Head Bay - Balls Head anchorage is upstream of Sydney Harbour bridge, in the northwest corner of the third bay on the north side of Port Jackson. Anchor in about eight or nine metres, north of a line joining the two points of land. An abandoned coal jetty, a naval shipyard and new housing development lie on the east side. In the entire Sydney waterway, Balls Head is the only designated "small craft anchorage" where visiting yachts can anchor for extended periods of time - maximum two months. It is also known as the international anchorage, but in fact, visiting Australian yachts are "encouraged" to use this bay as their Sydney base, too. Balls Head is, however, a good base for city-type exploration, since it gives cheap and easy access to town by rail from nearby Wollstonecraft railway station. It also boasts a lovely park on the point called Berry Island. Unfortunately, the anchorage has a reputation for a foul bottom, and is uncomfortably open to southerly winds. It is ironic that in such a large harbour with so many beautiful coves, the designated visitor's anchorage is no bigger than a postage stamp. It is only big enough for half-dozen boats, ten with a shoe horn. It's really a small anchorage for craft, not a small craft anchorage. Balmoral Beach(see Hunters Bay) Bantry Bay - For a really quiet anchorage, leave the hustle and bustle of Port Jackson's MainHarbour and tuck into Bantry Bay deep inside Middle Harbour. Surrounded by Garigal National Park bushland, it is hard to imagine that you are anchored in the heart of Australia's oldest and biggest city. Until it rains. At Bantry Bay, several blue 24-hour courtesy moorings have been installed making it easy to moor up for the night. Buildings on the west bank once used for munitions storage are prohibited entry. However, you can land south of the fenced-in area where the seawall ends. Here, a path links up with the superb bushwalking tracks of Gariga National Park and you can walk westward around the waterway towards Roseville Bridge and beyond. On the east bank of Bantry Bay, there are picnic tables, barbecues, fresh water taps, a grassy verge, a fixed dock and a floating dinghy dock. Yachts have been seen alongside the fixed dock, filling water tanks, though you must bring your own hose. A trail leads up the hill to Wakehurst Parkway. Another twenty minutes north on the trail that runs parallel to the road, brings you to an aboriginal site with many rock engravings of boomerangs, shields, fish. For a change of pace or fresh provisions, buses on Wakehurst Parkway can whisk you away to more civilized Manly or Warringah Mall. You can easily idle away a few days walking, fishing and birdwatching here. Crimson rosellas with their bright red and blue feathers will welcome you with a "kweek-kweek" as they dash amongst the branches of nearby eucalypts. Beaches - Sydney has two outstanding ocean beaches. Manly's Steyne Beach is easily accessible by cruisers. Simply anchor inside North Harbour off Manly Cove and walk across the isthmus. Bondi Beach, about three miles south of South Head requires jumping on a train, then zip, you're there. If you don't surf, the people-watching is great! Other good swim spots to anchor off include Shelley Beach (Manly), Manly Cove, off Store Beach, and at Balmoral Cove. Avoid swimming after heavy rains due to pollution and if you are shark-phobic, use one of the many swimming enclosures (nets) and saltwater pools. Berry's Bay - Berry's Bay is the second bay past Sydney Harbour Bridge on the north side of Port Jackson. It is not a suitable anchorage - the bay consists of narrow channels between moored yachts. Services ashore include two marinas, several shipwrights and Noakes Boat and Shipyard. Birkenhead Point - see Iron Cove Blackwattle Bay (see Fish Market) Boat Show In July, Sydney Boat Show is a'happening in Darling Harbour. Bombora A bombora is a shallow rock formation which can create dangerous and unpredictable surges of water over top. They can break at anytime and caution is advised in areas known to have reefs, shoals or bombora. Inside Sydney Harbour, Gowlland Bombora is located south of Dobroyd Head, to the west as you come into North Harbour. It's position is clearly marked on the chart and is surrounded with cardinal marker buoys. Botany Bay When Captain Cook and his Endeavour stopped here in 1770 to investigate the possibilities, his botanist Joseph Banks thought Botany Bay had potential as a good location for a penal colony. Banks was wrong. When the First Fleet sailed in on 18 January 1788, Governor Phillip found it shallow and unsheltered, the land scrubby and the soil poor. Next day, Phillip sailed north to Port Jackson and the rest is history. Botany Bay can lay claim to being the last place that French explorer La Perouse was seen alive before heading off on his Pacific explorations. It is also the first place many Australian visitors see since the Airport runways extend into the bay. Botany Bay is only few hours sailing south of Sydney Harbour. The entrance is wide and deep but it is not exactly a cruising destination, given the noise from the airport and other industrial developments. If, however, you're heading further south, it's worth stopping, if only to check out the headlands where Cook and La Perouse came ashore. Bridges (see Spit Bridge, Glebe Island/ANZAC Bridge, Gladesville Bridge) Broken Bay - Eighteen miles north of Sydney is Broken Bay, a convoluted waterway lined with eucalypt forests, craggy sandstone cliffs, hiking trails, and extravagant bird-life. The populated Pittwater area is pockmarked with bays filled with moorings, marinas, and thousands of boats. Anchorage can be found in Careel Bay, Coasters Retreat, Towlers Bay, Elvina Bay, down at the bottom near Bayview or off Church Point behind tiny bush-clad Scotland Island. Facilities are excellent. Broken Bay's Cowan Creek is surrounded by bush in the heart of Ku-ring-Gai Chase National Park, a superb backdrop to a cruising week or two or three with dozens of quiet coves to moor in and numerous waterfalls and beaches. Aboriginal people have left a legacy of rock engravings, easily found near America Bay and Little Shark Rock Point Bay. Contact Parks and Wildlife for a free Visitor Guide. - C - Cammaray Marina - One of the most hospitable marinas in Sydney is Cammaray (9953-4761 or www.cia.com.au/cammar), Middle Harbour, where visiting cruisers have always received heaps of friendly attention and assistance, and rides to town. Thousands of native Australian birds make their home in the neighbouring bush and golf course. When the cockatoos hung upside-down in our neighbour's rigging, the kookaburras laughed like demented children. Moorings at ninety cents a foot/week (plus a live-aboard fee) include a 7-day tender service, showers, laundry facilities, a book exchange, and use of a dedicated tv/lounge. Site facilities include a slipway and shipwright services. Bonafide overseas cruisers are given the first two nights moorage free of charge. Drawback - There are 106 steps up to the road from the marina. Captain Cook - (see Botany Bay) Captain Cook made landfall in Botany Bay in 1770. Sailing north, he named, but never entered, Port Jackson. Chandlers - Over 40 chandlers are listed in "The Little Red Book" (see Red Book). Cockle Bay (see Darling Harbour) Cruising Guide - Phillip Mathews "Waterways of Sydney Harbour" - $20.00. Great publication with excellent photos. Customs - Sydney Small Craft - 9317-7482 All vessels arriving from overseas must notify customs 24 hours in advance of sailing through Sydney Heads. Several Australian Government agencies Customs, Immigration and Quarantine have an interest in the craft's arrival. To make arrangements for smooth processing, it is preferable for the Master to give 48 hours notice by radio through any Telstra coastal radio station on 2182 khz. Alternatively 4125 or 6215 khz or VHF Ch 16 may be used. Customs will require the following information: - The name of the craft
- The intended port
- The last port of call
- The number of people on board
- Details of any illness or disease recently encountered
- If there are any animals on board
- The estimated time of arrival
CYCA (see Rushcutters Bay) - D - d'Albora Marinas - There is a d'Albora Marina in Rushcutters Bay, in Middle Harbour (just inside Spit Bridge) and one in Cowan Creek (Broken Bay). All three locations have fuel, water, and marine toilet pump-out facilities. Darling Harbour - Pyrmont Bridge leading into Cockle Bay has clearance of 7.0 metres at the side spans. It can be opened but the Mono Rail is fixed at 14.8 metres. That is the maximum mast height that can enter. The opening bridge is a walkway and is closed unless arrangements are made with the Operator on 9299-7541. Cockle Bay allows easy access to the city, Powerhouse Museum, Australian National Maritime Museum, Sydney Aquarium, Chinese Garden. Inside, fifty attractive floating marina berths are for daylight use only. These are under-utilized because over-priced at $30 to tie up a 7 metre vessel for the day. For a city with a celebrated harbour and such a fine waterside development, is this an example of the official attitude towards local boaters. Better to visit the Fish Market, and tie up to their free marina for lunch. Distance... to Sydney - From Vava'u - 2057 nautical miles
- From Nuku'alofa - 1936 nautical miles
- From Suva - 1730 nautical miles
- From Port Vila - 1400 nautical miles
- From Opua, NZ - 1150 nautical miles
- From Noumea - 1050 nautical miles
- From Norfolk Island - 900 miles
- From Gladstone - 600 miles
- From Brisbane - 430 miles
- From Coffs Harbour - 230 miles
Double Bay - Double Bay is open to the north and tends to get a good deal of ferry wash. It is possible to anchor on the east side of Double Bay in Blackburn Cove, outside of the moorings in a good sand bottom. Double Bay Marina has limited tie ups and moorings (when available) at reasonable prices and is close to shops in exclusive Double Bay. Drummoyne - see Iron Cove - E - Easy Eating and Drinking Spots - If you're looking for cappuccino, wine, or a seafood dinner close to a safe anchorage, try Sydney Fish Market, Manly, Watsons Bay, Rose Bay, Rushcutters Bay, Iron Cove (Drummoyne, Rozelle, Balmain) or Lane Cove River (up the hill in Woolwich). Elizabeth Bay - Close to Kings Cross and public transportation, Elizabeth Bay (just west of Rushcutters Bay) has a marina with swing moorings. E-Mail and Internet access - Internet Cafes can be found all over the Sydney area - those in Manly, CBD, Kings Cross, are close to suitable anchorages. Local libraries often have Internet access, but sometimes discourage e-mail activity. - F - Facilities - Just about every conceivable marine support service is available in and around Sydney Harbour, either as part of a marina operation or accessible by public transportation. Delivery of items by courier can be convenient and sometimes cost-effective. Try to get hold of The Little Red Book (see Red Book). Published annually, it has a complete list of all marine services and facilities and includes a map. Farm Cove - Farm Cove is where the convicts of the First Fleet tried to establish the colony's first gardens. It could be called the perfect anchorage. Farm Cove lies under the sails of Sydney's Opera House, surrounded on three sides by the Royal Botanical Gardens, seaward of the late afternoon shadow of Harbour Bridge. Shore access is available at the public wharf on the east side of the Opera House. It's a great place to anchor on December 31st to watch the fireworks display. Unfortunately, it's not a practical spot to linger due to the uncomfortable wake bombardment of busy harbour traffic. Ferry frenzy - Sydney Harbour Ferries that display an orange diamond shape have priority over sail. Stay out of their way. Fireworks - What a celebration! New Years Eve on Sydney Harbour. Explosions of light flashing in the dark, each pyrotechnic display bigger and better and higher than the last as a continuous veil of colour falls from the sky. Then the grand finale when a waterfall of light cascades from the span of the Sydney Bridge. The encore: fireworks encircling the top of Sydney Tower high above the city centre. Don’t miss it. Nowhere does fireworks like Sydney. Seaward of the bridge, the best bays for viewing are Farm Cove or Athol Bay. Fishing - Flathead and flounder, bream and trevally, blue swimmer crabs, spotted mackerel and kingfish, plus estuary and offshore fish... Check out www.fisheries.nsw.gov.au OR ring 9566-7800 for restrictions. Fish Market (Rozelle & Blackwattle Bays) - Located just west of Darling Harbour, the Sydney Fish Market (east corner of Blackwattle Bay in Pyrmont) has become a favourite hangout for visiting cruising boats, with courtesy daytime marina berths for patrons of the market. In addition to having every type of seafood on hand, there are a delicatessen, a fruit and veg shop, a baker, and a wine shop. It's a good place to have land-based friends visit, very busy on the weekend, and closed evenings. The two adjoining bays, Blackwattle and Rozelle, have become popular with visiting cruising boats, with easy access to shops and good holding. Both bays are protected from all wind directions. Nearby, the Broadway Mall has all the requisite shops for reprovisioning, including two supermarkets and a fabulous bookstore. A local providor can fill your duty-free needs, and downtown CBD and train stations are within walking distance. Further exploration to nearby Glebe (laundry, post office, shops, library) or Newtown (where there are more bookshops than any other area of Sydney) are recommended. The downside to this nearly perfect anchorage is the traffic noise from the bridge and bits of junk on the bottom. Long-term visits are discouraged and yachts must keep clear of the fairway required by the cement ship Claudia. Waterways (Sydney) office is located in Rozelle Bay and will advise on current policy. Fort Denison - This 19th century prison island for real bad dudes is now simply a small landmark seaward of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. No landing by private vessels. Forty Basket Beach (North Harbour) - Forty Baskets of what, you may ask. Fish, sent to a contingent of Sudan troops at the North Head quarantine station in 1885. East of Forty Basket Beach is Reef Beach. Also known as "Pirates Camp", it was a camping area during the Great Depression of the 1930's, and is now a clothing-optional beach. Heath vegetation around to Grotto Point is almost the same as it would have appeared to the First Fleet - lots of she-oak (wiry casuarina shrubs). Trails that lead from both anchorages take you around and across the peninsula which is dedicated National Parkland, and all natural bush. We walked from Forty Baskets Beach to Clontarf Beach (a pleasant picnic ground, in use since mid-eighteen hundreds!) and Sandy Bay via the light at Grotto Point. Crater Cove overlook provided a fantastic view out over Dobroyd Head to sea. A First Fleet survey party camped at Grotto Point on January 18, 1788. Later, in 1911, the Grotto Point Lighthouse was built. When aligned with the Parriwi light at Mosman, it guides ships into Sydney Harbour. Further inside North Harbour is Davis Marina and Treharnes Manly Boatshed. Fuel - Ability Barge 0419-356-633 (diesel, towing, etc.) See d'Albora Marinas - G - Gladesville Bridge - This bridge marks the beginning of Parramatta River cruising. Clearance is an incredible 40 metres, with a minimum of 24.3 metres under the red triangles. Glebe Island/ANZAC Bridge - This great bridge rises 27 metres overhead - plenty of mast clearance. In the water, there is about eight metres horizontal clearance between the older disused bridge structure. On the bridge itself, two towers rise 121 metres into the sky and carry a single span of 345 metres. Alan Lucas describes this fantastic structure as "butterfly wings". I've also heard it called "Madonna's Bra". To me, it looks like some fabulous great schooner arriving from outer space. It guards the aquatic entrance to Sydney's Fish Market and the Blackwattle and Rozelle Bay anchorages. Goat Island - Goat Island is now a Sydney Harbour National Park, but was once the MSB (Maritime Services Board) maintenance depot. Accessible to the public, but not by private boat! Not yet. - H - Harbour Bridge - When Sydney Harbour Bridge was completed in 1932, it was the largest arch bridge in the world. It is still mighty impressive, especially on New Years Eve when the infamous waterfall of light cascades into the harbour. Adventurous cruisers might like to join a Bridge Climb, a recent commercial venture to the top of the middle span. It's sure to give you a great view of the harbour, if not vertigo. Hazards (navigational, natural, criminal) Navigational hazards within Sydney Harbour include the Sow and Pigs reef (just inside the entrance and well-lit) and the Gowlland Bombora (see Bombora). Big boats heading towards Middle Harbour at low tide may get a surprise in Hunter Bay where a large shoal area (a bar of 2.7 metres) exists. Natural hazards include sharks and jellyfish, even within the harbour, and tide rips if you swim off any of the ocean beaches. If stung by jellyfish tentacles, gently apply vinegar or methylated spirits to deactivate the stinging cells. More deadly are tiny blue-ring octopus, the red-bellied black snake or the Tunnel-web spider. Be wary, and keep a lookout in the bush and in the water. Criminal hazards include the same risk of theft as in any large city - it can happen. So keep your boat locked when you're not aboard. History - in a capsule It was Lord Sydney, British Home Office Secretary, who decided 736 thieves would go to Australia. So the First Fleet sailed for Botany Bay, arriving on 18 January 1788. Captain Phillip declared it unsuitable and set off to examine Port Jackson to the north. He declared it "the finest harbour in the world" and the Fleet followed up the coast, anchoring in Port Jackson on 26 January 1788. The British flag was raised ashore and the colony of New South Wales proclaimed. More than one surprised Aboriginal remarked: "Warra Warra!" (Go away!) Hunters Bay - Hunters Bay is in the outer Middle Harbour, downstream of Spit Bridge. Boats and beaches line both shores. A large shoal area 2.7 metres extends across Hunters Bay. Anchorage can be taken in a sandy bottom off Balmoral Beach. Anchor outside the many moored craft. A public beach and businesses lie on shore. This can be a comfortable spot, depending on the wind and swell. Anchor at Chinaman’s Beach to await the opening of Spit Bridge. - I - Immigration - Overseas cruisers are required to have a visa before arriving in Australia. Extensions may be applied for - the Immigration office is located on Cumberland Street, in the Rocks, Sydney. Extensions are costly, but necessary, whether for two weeks or six months - A$145.00 per person. International Anchorage (see Balls Head) Iron Cove - Anchoring northeast of the Iron Cove Bridge, near the suburbs and shops of Rozelle and Balmain and across from the Birkenhead Point Marina and Shopping Centre, provides a protected spot in most wind directions. A short steep walk gets you to Darling Street (Rozelle) and frequent buses. Saturday's Balmain Market is popular and lots of fun. Nearby, Drummoyne is a handy place to re-provision. Anchorage can also be taken off the Drummoyne Sailing Club. Shopping and re-provisioning couldn't be easier. The waterfront shopping centre includes a big supermarket, a liquor store, a hardware store, restaurants and factory outlets. Several marine businesses (chandler, stainless fasteners, sail loft, etc.) are found nearby on Victoria Road. Exploring beyond Iron Cove Bridge (12.3 metres) is limited to small boats. - J - January - January marks the start of summer and the best time to be cruising Sydney Harbour. After New Years Eve's Fireworks, the month continues with free concerts and festivals which culminate in the Australia Day extravaganza. Broken Bay cruising is best postponed until after the school holidays crush! Jellyfish (see Hazards, natural) - K - Kirribilli - The last point of land on the north side of the harbour before you pass under the Sydney Harbour Bridge is Kirribilli Point - an exclusive piece of real estate with Kirribilli House (the Sydney residence of the Prime Minister) and Admiralty House (home of the Governor General). Wave as you go by, but don't expect an invitation. - L - Lane Cove River - The affable Greenwich Flying Squadron lies on the east side of the first bend leading into Lane Cove River. Both shores are lined with homes and boats on moorings. The River is quite peaceful and well-protected. Anchorage can be had anywhere along the edge of the moored boats in about 5 meters, making sure to keep clear of ferry docks and fairways. Just east of the shark-net enclosed Woolwich Baths, opposite the park and ferry terminal at Longueville, is a beach where you can land and put your dinghy. Up the walkway from the baths is Woolwich Road. Left from here is a lookout, hotel, and two restaurants. From the lookout you can walk down to Clarkes Point reserve. Kellys Bush and the start of The Great North Walk (which carries on to Newcastle!) lie to the west. The river shoals further up near the 9 metre bridge, so access further upstream to Lane Cove National Park is limited. Launching Facilities - (See Waterways) Laundry - If there's one thing about life, it creates dirty clothes. Laundry facilities can be found near the Blackwattle/Rozelle Bay anchorage in town of Glebe, in Manly, and at Cammaray Marina. Lavender Bay - Lavender Bay is the first bay on the north shore after passing under Sydney Harbour Bridge. It’s the bay with the lunatic face of Luna Park leering on the east shore as you sail by. The bay is filled with boats on moorings and there is no room for anchoring. There are three public jetties. Lights - Macquarie Light (Fl.(2) 10s.) is the first light yachtsmen see whether arriving from the north or south. In good conditions, it can be seen from a distance of 25 miles. South Head is lit by Hornsby Light (Fl.5s) - 15 mile light. North Head light can be seen only from 3 miles out to sea. Leads on Grotto Point and Parriwi mark the entrance into Port Jackson. The heading is 294 degrees true on a sector light (Oc.(4)WRG 15s.).
- M - Mail - Itinerant cruisers looking for a good spot to have mail sent have several options. Use a local marina, one of several American Express offices, or have it sent "in care of" Poste Restante at a convenient location. Avoid using the main downtown Sydney post office. Use smaller, more convenient, user-friendly post offices, near the water, like P.O. Double Bay (2028), P.O. Rozelle (2039) or P.O. Manly (2095) . Manly (North Harbour) - Manly was named by the first governor for the "manly" bearing of the local Aborigines. Anchorage can be taken off the swimming beach, in about 5 metres, well away from the Ferry Dock. The rock and roll from the ferry is worse during commute hours, but bearable as long as the boat and her crew are ship-shape and ready for wild seas! Anchor here in northerly conditions on sunny "beach and surf" kind of days when you can go ashore and enjoy the people watching, swimming, surfing, walking, shopping. There are showers on the beach for rinsing off saltwater. An Information Centre on Ocean Beach is worth raiding. Manly, itself, is an easygoing, seaside resort town filled with tourist shops (great buys on t-shirts), restaurants, Internet cafes, and bunches of beaches. At night, you can hear the BOOM of the surf. A promenade runs west from the wharf around North Harbour past the saltwater pool at Fairlight Beach. A stone wall and three Norfolk Island Pines can still be seen, all that remains of Fairlight House, built in 1854 by Henry Gilbert Smith, a great benefactor of Manly. The Manly Walkway - from Manly all the way to Spit Bridge - is as advertised: wild seascapes, sculpted headlands, beaches, sailing boats and a taste of native bush. In the opposite direction, a walk to North Head takes about 2 hours. Marinas (see Cammaray; Rushcutters Bay) There are many marinas in Sydney Harbour, most relatively small, most with Sydney prices. The predominance of primitive fixed docks and pilings is slowly changing as more floating facilities appear. Most marinas have both moorings and berths, and many have shipwright services or slipping facilities. Maritime Museums - Don't miss the Australian National Maritime Museum (Darling Harbour) and Sydney Maritime Museum. Middle Harbour (see Bantry Bay, Sugarloaf Bay, Cammaray marina) Access to Middle Harbour is through the Spit Bridge which opens at regular intervals (see Spit Bridge). Once inside Middle Harbour, there are lots of quiet bays with boats on moorings or on pilings outside homes with small floating docks. Great sightseeing - multi-million dollar homes, built in extreme locations (nearly falling off the rocky cliffs) which owners can access only via elevators from the road straight-down and the water straight-up. Moorings Public/Private - Several bays are nearly filled with moorings, and squeezing in between is not recommended as you may foul your anchor or mess up a mooring. Try to anchor just outside moored boats, as long as you are sure you're not in the path of seaplane or ferry traffic or blocking access to facilities within the bay! Inside Broken Bay, there are several park moorings, which are available free-of-charge for the period of 24 hours. In Middle Harbour, too, there are about a dozen 24-hour public moorings thanks to Waterways. Blue police moorings are scattered around the harbour but are not for public use, except in an emergency. - N - Navigation - Sydney Harbour is a busy commercial port. Approaches to the Harbour and transit within the Harbour, using either the east or west channels, are prominently marked on Charts AUS 197, 200 and 203 inclusive. Leads and channels are well lit and easily identifiable. Sydney Harbour Control listens to VHF Channels 16 & 13. Neutral Bay - Neutral Bay is a large cove on the north side of Sydney Harbour, just before the Harbour Bridge, filled with marinas, moorings, boats yards, and three public jetties. New Years Eve (see Fireworks) North Harbour (see Manly; Spring Cove; Forty Basket Beach) The centre of North Harbour is the northern suburb of Manly where neon lights and a ferris wheel lend a carnival atmosphere to the waterfront. Manly is a peninsula with Sydney’s North Harbour on one side and open ocean on the other. Nearby, sixteen beaches, inlets and coves satisfy all swimming, surfing and sunning requirements. Store Beach, inaccessible by road, is a quiet little cove, popular with Sydney boaters because of its sandy beach and expanse of parkland. >NSW's National Parks and Wildlife Service (9585-6333) "Ten national parks adjoin waterways within the Sydney region. Many of these contain special environments which help to conserve our fragile natural heritage." PWS naturally wants boaters to be responsible, to ensure that the city's wildlife is protected. A number of protected animals such as Fairy Penguins, a variety of seabirds, whales, seals and other marine mammals live in the estuaries and off-shore around Sydney. Boaters need only follow common sense - obey speed limits, don't terrify the indigenous plants and animals which are protected in national parks, and leave your dogs, cats, firearms and spearguns at home. - O - Overseas Yachts - Overseas yachts must get a Cruising Permit from Customs after arrival. These are issued for a period of six months or the length of the skipper’s visa, whichever is less. Extension of the permit for a total period of up to 12 months are considered on application. Cruising Permit renewals and extensions are obtained from Customs, now located at Sydney International Airport. Notify Customs of your intentions beforehand, then hop on an Airport Express bus. - P - Parramatta River (see Gladesville Bridge) The 11.5 metre bridge heights of the Parramatta River road and rail bridges (Ryde Bridge and Whitton Bridge) prohibits most cruisers from visiting further upstream. The River Cat is a probably the best way to see Homebush Bay and beyond. Downstream, Five Dock Bay (Drummoyne) has anchoring possibilities. In Hen and Chicken Bay, too, you can anchor off a park in Abbotsford. Access to town is by bus or River Cat. You can also anchor in nearby Kendall Bay, near Mortlake, where a rigger, haul out facilities and River Quays Marina are located. Provisioning (see Fish Market; Iron Cove; Manly) Public Transportation - In Sydney, taking the train is quicker and cheaper than the bus but not always practical. The best anchorages for accessing the public train system are Balls Head Bay, Fish Market or Rushcutters Bay. Day returns (purchased after 9 am) are the best value. The public transport Info Line is 131-500. . . . Or try their web site www.sydneytransport.net.au For bus travel, ask about Travel 10 tickets and other deals. Pump Out facilities - Sydney Harbour is a "No Discharge" area. Even so, there are very few public vessel pump-out facilities. Two are at d'Albora Marinas (just inside Spit Bridge and at Rushcutters Bay), another is just inside Darling Harbour, a fourth is on the south shore upstream of the Gladesville Bridge at Five Dock Point. Private facilities are available at some marinas. - Q - Quarantine - Vessels arriving from overseas are required to undergo a quarantine inspection under the user pays system. So know what you've got, and where it’s stowed before arriving. Also, try to arrive between 9-5 on a work day (that's a tough one!) because overtime charges may bring the minimum 15 minute inspection cost up to A$236 (Saturdays) or about A$350 (Sundays and holidays). Quarantine Beach (see Spring Cove) Quarantine Station - Quarantine Station was established on North Head in 1832. It operated for 150 years and served as an "isolation ward" to protect Sydney residents against contagious diseases brought by new immigrants. It was last used in 1984 as emergency accommodation for Vietnamese orphans. - R - Radio etiquette - In the Sydney area, as elsewhere, marine radios have specific calling and distress frequencies. These should not be used as chat channels. 27 MHz - channel 88 (distress and initial call) VHF - channel 16 (distress and initial call) HF - 2182 and 2524 Red Book - "The Little Red Book" is a complete boating directory to Sydney Harbour and Pittwater-area marine businesses and facilities. Better yet, like the best things in life, it's free. Published annually. Call 9810-5990 Reef Beach (see Forty Basket Beach) Rescue - Emergency assistance or updates on weather and safety information are available from either the Australian Volunteer Coast Guard (9337-5033) (Monitors 27.88 MHz and VHF 16 &67, 24 hours a day) OR the Royal Volunteer Coastal Patrol (9969-3270) (Monitors 27.88 MHz and VHF 16 from 0700 to 1900 hours weekdays; from 1900 Friday to 1900 Sunday). Rose Bay - Anchorage can be taken in 8 metres of water, just east of the police mooring and off the Imperial Peking Afloat. Stay south and well clear of the Rose Bay Ferry dock access. The holding is good, in sand and mud. The bay is protected from all wind directions except strong northerlies. The major attraction at Rose Bay is the seaplane activity and the easy access to bus and telephone. In addition, there is a sailing club, the impressive Royal Motor Yacht Club, Rose Bay Marina, an RSL and a Golf Course. Roseville Bridge - Located far inside Middle Harbour, this bridge is 17.4 metres overhead. However, the adjacent Pipe Bridge has only 11 metres. This limitation, combined with only 1.5 metres depth of water, make it out of reach for most cruising vessels. If you fit, though, there are anchorages upstream of the marina and moorings, beyond the bridge, surrounded by Garigal National Park. Rozelle Bay (see Fish Market) Rushcutters Bay - RAN, d'Albora Marina and the Cruising Yacht Club, Australia (CYCA) have facilities in Rushcutters Bay. The claim to fame of the CYCA is that it plays host to many ocean-going races. For over 50 years, in fact, they have organized the world-famous Sydney-Hobart Race. Many boats that do the race, year after year, are berthed there. Some cruisers tie up to the CYCA's docks for a few days since it's a good place to meet friends, the food is good, and it's close to the city. Unfortunately, the stress is on "Ocean Racing" and racers NOT "Cruising" or cruisers, so you may or may not feel comfortable. D'Albora Marina fuel dock is an easy place to refuel and top up water tanks. Berths, unfortunately, are for high rollers! - S - Sharks (see Hazards, Natural) Showers - On the beach in Manly, you can get a fresh water rinse after a swim. But unless you're staying in a marina, best to jerry jug water out to the boat for your showers. Spit Bridge - To enter Middle Harbour, you must time your arrival with the openings of the Spit Bridge. The schedule varies, with more openings on the weekend. Phone Bridge Operator on 9948-1018 for opening times. On weekends and public holidays, the bridge opens 0800, 0900, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1430, 1530, 1630, 1800, 1900, 2000, and 2130. During the week, Spit Bridge morning openings are at 10:15 and 11.30; weekday afternoons at 1:00, 2:00, 2:45; weekday evenings at 7:30 and 8:30 (9:30 p.m. DST only). Once the bridge opens, red and green lights control the traffic - common courtesy seems to be the downstream traffic first. Spring Cove (North Harbour) - Spring Cove is a very popular anchorage, especially during summer holidays. The rest of the time, it's under-used and a great place to hang out. Collins, Store and Quarantine Beach are quite lovely and the water is clear. One restriction, you must anchor 30 metres offshore, and no stern lines are allowed. It is well-protected from all but strong westerlies, but subject to continuous roll from wake bombardment. See Quarantine Station. Store Beach (see Spring Cove) Sugarloaf Bay - Two blue public 24-hour moorings are available here, though it is quite nice to anchor further along in Castle Cove (the North Arm). A walking trail runs around the bay and beyond, and up to an overlook in Harold Reid Reserve. Picnic tables, fresh water, gas barbecues and a parking lot are located on top of the Middle Cove headland. For the energetic, Chatswood (provisions and shopping) is not nearby, but within walking distance. Surfing - Where else? Manly or Bondi. See Beaches. Swell - At times, ocean swell can affect anchorages within the harbour. However, Sydney’s harbour entrance is deep and yachts can enter regardless of swell height. Sydney Cove - Circular Quay Keep well clear! NO entry is allowed into Sydney Cove. Sydney Cove’s Circular Quay is the hub of on-the-water transportation, just west of the Opera House. It is the main city terminal for all harbour ferries and cruise boats. Added to the confusion are water taxis. If you're sailing on the Harbour, it's a good place to avoid - unless you want to get mowed down. - T - Tarban Creek - A quiet but crowded anchorage, on the north shore before the Gladesville Bridge (Tarban Creek Bridge clearance 20 metres). Telephones (Public) - The good news - local phone calls of any length (excluding calls to cell phones) are only 40 cents. The bad news - many of the phone boxes designed for the recent introduction of Smart Cards, aren't so smart and are broken. If you need to make a call, be patient. Carry cash, a credit card and one of the old cardboard "stupid" cards as well as a smart card - one of the four varieties might work! Best to have all the options covered. For long distance calling, check out the special discount international phone cards. Australia seems to have the lowest international rates in the world. Tides - Tides are based on Sydney-Fort Denison and, in most tide books, not corrected for Daylight Savings Time. - U - Underwear Unnecessary - Clothing-optional Lady Bay Beach (near Watsons Bay) may give you a fright if you’re caught off-guard and sailing too close. - V - Vaucluse Bay - Vaucluse Bay is a small bay with few attractions for anchoring - it's a bit open, deep and there's not much room. However, it is a great location for accessing Nielsen Park. A blue police mooring lies just opposite Nielsen Park on the west side of Vaucluse Bay. If you arrive in the night or get blown out of nearby Watsons Bay, it might be a viable emergency option for the few hours until daybreak. - W - Walks - There are several trails within Sydney Harbour that are accessible to cruising folk. See Manly; Forty Basket Beach; Watsons Bay; Athol Bay; Bantry Bay; Sugarloaf Bay; Lane Cove River. Water - Fresh water can be obtained at marinas or fuel docks, though public on-the-water parks or launch ramps often have a tap. Check to see that it's potable, and boil or chlorinate if it’s not. Waterways - Waterways is an excellent source of Boating Maps, up-to-date weather and other boating information. Check out their Internet site at www.waterways.nsw.gov.au OR phone 13-12-36. Waterways' Sydney office is located in Rozelle Bay near the Sydney Fish Market. Watson's Bay - Once a fishing village, Watson's Bay is now a victim of urban sprawl but with the attraction of seafood restaurants on the beach, the Watsons Bay Hotel, and several scenic walks. Watson's Bay is the first big bay inside South Head, off the eastern channel. Governor Phillip landed at Green Point, not far from today's Customs Buoy in Watsons Bay. Joshua Slocum, too, tied up in Watsons Bay, where he nursed his "neuralgia" on shore while the weather blew. Cruising boats can anchor southeast of Green Point, in 11 metres, just outside the moorings. The anchorage is open to the west but has great views of the city. There is good holding in sand. Be sure to stay clear of the ferry access to the dock. Dinghies can be landed on the beach in front of the restaurant. From the public jetty at Wharf Beach, a shoreline walk leads north past the naval reserve to the beach at Camp Cove before crossing to the clothing-optional Lady Bay Beach. The trail eventually winds up at Hornsby Lighthouse with views of North Head. Several defensive gun emplacements betray the military history of this headland. Walk straight up from the dinghy landing to get to "Gap Park" where a gargantuan ships anchor marks the memorial to the Dunbar which was shipwrecked on the coast in 1857. A coastal cliff walk winds atop sheer cliffs past the Gap and surging sea views south to Macquarie Light. Weather info - Sydney Harbour lies between Broken Bay and Port Hacking. Separate weather forecasts for Sydney Offshore Waters and Enclosed Waters (Pittwater, Sydney, Botany Bay) are issued each day at around 5 a.m., 10.30 a.m. and 4 p.m. Sydney Radio, Penta Comstat, AVCG, and RVCP regularly broadcast this info on VHF, HF and 27 MHz. Listen on Channel 16 for announcements, followed by weather reports. Forecasts and warnings are broadcast by AM and FM radio stations. If you have television aboard, you'll be able to monitor the weather systems in action! Local weather info is also available on AM and FM radio, telephone, fax, and Internet www.bom.gov.au. Web Sites - Whales - Humpbacks, Southern Right Whales and occasionally the Pygmy Sperm Whale visit Sydney coastal waterways. Seal species (fur seals and leopard seals) often "haul out" onto the beaches and foreshores around Sydney. If you encounter whales, keep your distance, reduce speed or stop, and quietly enjoy the unique opportunity of observing them in their element. - X - X-cursion - For a change of pace, hop on a train or rent a car and cruise inland to the Blue Mountains. - Y - Yacht Clubs - Cruising Yacht Club Australia (9363-9731) is the best place to arrange temporary berthing while in Sydney. Facilities include an excellent water-side restaurant, bar, marine railway and hot showers. Tucked deep inside Rushcutters Bay near the Edgecliff train station, the marina is well-protected from all wind directions and is currently being upgraded - old fixed docks are being replaced with floating marina berths. Don’t even think about a spot during Sydney-Hobart race week, but staff will do their best to find room at other times of the year. Middle Harbour Yacht Club (9969-1244) - located east of The Spit at Mosman - has a pile and wharf marina and moorings which are open to south and east winds. Space can be found for a cruising yacht for a night or two, at a cost of $20 per night. There is a bar and bistro ashore, and water and power on the docks. Like CYCA, it is an active club involved in both winter and summer racing. Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron, Kirribilli (9955-7171) has some casual mooring, but is restricted to members and reciprocal clubs. Sydney Amateur Sailing Club, Cremorne (9953-1433) is a private club with no moorings available for cruising yachts. Facilities include a pontoon. - Z - Zoo (see Athol Bay) Zulu time - GMT or UTC Sydney is plus ten hours UTC time. Translated, if it's 2200 hours (Tuesday) in Greenwich, England, it's 0800 hours (Wednesday) in Sydney. Use Zulu time if you're trying to keep radio skeds with cruising buddies in other time zones. © Sally Andrew April 2005 More about the author |